Illustrated hiker with backpack looking out over a mountain valley

A PILGRIM'S LIFE

Documenting life, food, and American history

9 OF 18 ENTRIES DISPLAYED

North African Awakening
Personal Blog
October 12, 2016•5 min read

North African Awakening

"Do you remember your first kiss?"

This has been Tangier for me. In the short two-and-a-half days of being here, I feel like a lost child at the start of a grand adventure, full of bewilderment and awe, distracted by the sounds, the smells, the living. To some it's a dirty, downtrodden port, a necessary evil on your way to the true Morocco, or while you await escape across the strait to the safety, familiarity and comfort of Europe.

I've quickly come to recognize it as the crossing point of cultures and worlds, which never truly fit the ethnocentrism of the West or Middle East but which instead just seek to survive as some conceptual hybrid with a subtle hint of obliquity. The blackened streets are colored with the oil of life and every single layer contains a narrative and some you feel, a parable. Dark alleyways exhaling seductively deep whispers of 'hey my friend, I have good hashish' and the oh-so-sweet aroma of mint tea, seek to serve as icing on an already decadent, yet slightly deviant cake.

I commented to someone that the difference between crowds here and in Madrid is that instead of the insanity and aimlessness of tourism, every person here appears to walk with purpose or doing something. Selling, buying, drinking, eating, fixing things which look completely beyond repair, dodging the petite taxis careering down cobbled streets or just simply engaged in conversation. Maybe it's been the overly emotional Camino I just finished but this reminds me of why travel is so important. Not for the Sun or beaches but to experience all walks of life; to appreciate what you have back home but not equate it to happiness and to continually show how absolutely bloody wonderful it is, to be alive.

Read Entry→
Hike: North Fork to Hurricane Ridge
Personal Blog
July 30, 2016•15 min read

Hike: North Fork to Hurricane Ridge

On paper, something can look appealing, simple, even highly enjoyable.  One thing I know about travel and hiking (and still apparently have yet to learn) is that these attributes are usually logical fallacies, born out of ignorance or, commonly with me, denial. Yet again, I find myself on the wrong side of easy and amusingly, most of the time I wouldn't have it any other way.

North Fork to Whiskey Bend, bisects the Olympic National Park; a straightforward hike following the Quinault and then Elwha rivers North, before terminating a few miles up the road from the recently removed Glines Canyon Dam.  There are a multitude of options for bagging a few peaks or extending ridge trails but for this particular hike, we were (incorrectly) informed when calling the local rangers, that the intended higher routes were still somewhat inaccessible due to snow and so decided on hiking the valley for the most part.

During this first day, I've never seen so much available foraging.  Red Huckleberries, Blackberries, Salmonberries, Thimbleberries and Blueberries were available in such abundance that I hardly snacked on my packed food at all.  The wilderness food became more scarce as the hike went on but what a treat to start a four day adventure.

The first eight or so miles, gently incline through a trail which despite the alleged heavy usage and being noted as well maintained, is looking a little overgrown in places. Save for a few open areas by creeks, it's mostly all under the shade of old rain forest growth, giving a cool reprieve on hot days.  After passing eight miles, the trail steepens slightly, to accommodate the remaining 2500' to Low Divide.

Read Entry→
Scroll to load older journals